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  • Private Knitting Lesson

    If you are a total beginner, please contact me prior to scheduling so I can steer you toward the right yarn and knitting needles for your needs. For beginner children's and pre-teen's lessons, I highly recommend that a parent/guardian learn along with the child. Not only will this enable you to help them at home, but learning alongside your child is a great opportunity to strengthen your bond and build trust in the relationship. If you already know how to knit but need some help with a specific technique or work-in-progress, this is for you too! You can tell me a little about your experience and needs in the booking form, which will help me prepare for your lesson. When you're really lost or just starting out knitting, it's hard to get very far in just one hour. With a longer lesson, we can make a lot of progress. I will work with you to determine what your goals are and tailor a plan to guide you toward it. Select your desired duration when booking. The default meeting place will be set to Ediya Coffee in Asan Techno Valley, but if you have somewhere else that works better for you (still in the Pyeongtaek/Asan area) let me know. The address of Ediya is: 충남 아산시 둔포면 아산밸리남로 77 (You can paste it into Naver)

  • Introduction to Lace Knitting

    When: Monday, October 26 at 9 a.m. Even if you don't complete your bookmark by the end of class, you will be set up with the skills to finish it on your own. I am of course also available to help if you have a (knitting) crisis afterward. Who: This class is for those who are already confident knitting and purling. What: We will learn lace knitting techniques, which involves creatively placed increases and decreases. I will teach you how to follow both written and charted instructions and make sense of all the abbreviations that so many patterns use, as well as how to "read" your work. Where: Yesterday's Bookstore in Pyeongtaek. Walking distance from Camp Humphreys Pedestrian Gate. Bring your own yarn and knitting needles. For the bookmark, I suggest fingering weight or lighter so that it isn't too bulky between your pages. Needle size depends of your preference and personal gauge, but I recommend between 3.5-4mm (US 4-6) We're not trying to make a dense fabric, so even if you're using a really thin yarn, your needles don't have to be too tiny.

  • Beginner Knitting Class - September 2026

    Over the course of 3 classes, you will learn the basics of knitting and make a coaster to put under a hot drink on a cold day (or you can put it under a cold drink or houseplant, or hang it on your wall; you do you, Boo!). The class pace will be based on how each student is picking up each new technique, and I will help with mistakes as they happen. Learning how to fix mistakes is an important skill! (Even advanced knitters make mistakes sometimes.) Yarn and knitting needles will be provided. We will loosely follow this schedule: Week 1: How to cast on and introduction to the knit stitch Week 2: Fixing mistakes and getting more comfortable with knitting Week 3: How to bind off and finish, and introducing strategies for future knitting success. For my faster learners, I'll teach you how to purl and throw in some extras so you don't get bored. We'll meet at the new Yesterday's Bookstore location just a short walk from the Millet Gate outside Camp Humphreys in Pyeongtaek. Address: 경기 평택시 팽성읍 안정로 54 1층

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Blog Posts (44)

  • How to Measure the Yardage of Leftover Yarn

    When you finish a knitting project, you usually have some yarn left over, right? I know I do. I'm going to show you how to calculate how many yards or meters are left with reasonable accuracy so you can plan your stash-busting projects with confidence. After finishing a project I recently finished a big project - my Channel Cardigan. I still need to update the yardage in my stash. Now, I keep all of my yarn organized digitally in my Ravelry notebook. I have a really old video about that here. You can go back and check out if you want to know HOW to do that, but to calculate how many yards you have left is a little bit complicated you might think, right? Wrong. It’s easy. Supplies: A Scale All you need is a digital scale. That's it. Please note though: this method is for when you know how many yards per gram or ounce or whatever are in a skein of this yarn. If you've lost the label and you did not take note of it and you don't remember what brand or kind of yarn it is, I'm sorry but this is not gonna work for you quite so easily. Your Yarn Grab any partial skeins that you have left, and then make sure there aren't any others hidden anywhere. Sometimes I have a tendency to throw my knitting projects in a bag when I'm on the go and then leave partial balls different places. A Bowl This one is optional, but if the yarn won’t fit completely on the scale, a bowl will keep it all contained. Just make sure you zero out the weight on the scale after placing the bowl and before putting the yarn it it. And Now We Weigh If you have your stash and knitting project in your Ravelry notebook already, open up the project and scroll down to the yarn information. It will say how many yards or meters were originally in your stash. Click that, and note the original gross weight. (When you started the project) Then weigh your yarn. Subtract the current weight from the original weight; take note of how much that is, because that's how much you used. Go back to the project page, click 'edit project' then go down to the yarn again and click 'enter totals' then you're going to enter the difference, so, the amount that you used. Click 'save changes' and bam! now your stash is updated with the amount left over and your project reflects how much yarn you used. The reason I choose to do this through the project page and not the stash page is because it not only helps you buy the correct amount of yarn should you ever want to knit this pattern again, so you can know if you have enough, but it also helps other knitters who might want to make this pattern and might be curious how much yarn it's taken other knitters to finish a particular size. Without Ravelry If you just want to know how much is left, you can still calculate it manually with just a little bit of math. Look at what the label says and divide the length by the weight, and then multiply that by the current weight. Make sure you're using the same unit of measurement so you don't throw off your numbers. Et voila! That's how much you have left. See? I told you it was easy.

  • Tamarack Cardigan

    A finished object and the struggles I had with it. Experienced, but... Even though I've been knitting for a quarter of a century, every once in a while, a project comes along that really challenges me. Sometimes it feels like nothing's going right; I get really frustrated, but after all is said and done, these are the things that I end up being the most proud of. The Yarn: The yarn for this project was sponsored by knitpicks.com. They let me choose the yarn I wanted, and sent it to me free of charge. The only thing that was required of me was to say that it was #sponsored. It’s my very first sponsorship so this was really exciting for me! The Pattern: The pattern is Tamarack Cardigan for Him by Jared Flood of Brooklyn Tweed. This is the second cardigan pattern of his that I've made for my husband. It's another great pattern, and since it uses bulky weight yarn, it went pretty quickly as far as sweaters go. Modifications: I subtracted some length out of the body, sleeves, and a little bit from the armholes, because my husband is a short guy. That’s it! Since his first cardigan still fits him well, I measured it and compared it with the schematics for this pattern. That made it really easy to adjust. Special Techniques: 1. Tubular Cast-on I had never done it before. Yes, I know I'm a very experienced knitter, and I'm also still learning. You should never stop learning. I looked up a lot of tutorials for the tubular cast on, and there are so many different ways to do it, it was kind of overwhelming. I still need to figure out which way is my favorite. (When I do figure out my favorite method, I'll be sure to make a tutorial for you.) But it was totally worth the effort! 2. Moss Stitch The main stitch pattern for the body and sleeves is the moss stitch, or as some people call it: double seed stitch, or Irish moss. Whatever you want to call it, it's gorgeous and it's also really easy. 3. Ribbing There’s a good simple 2x2 ribbing around the edges of the sleeves, hem, and collar. I used a special technique for making it look extra neat. I don’t have a tutorial yet, but all you do is wrap the yarn around the needle clockwise instead of counterclockwise when working the first purl after a knit. Then on the following row that stitch will be twisted on the needle, and you untwist it by simply working it through the back loop. This prevents the weird leggy stitch you can sometimes end up with. 4. Short Rows Once again, there are a lot of different options when it comes to working short rows, but I think I ended up using the German short row technique. It worked out well and wasn’t hard to keep track of. 5. Tubular Bind-off I decided to do a tubular bind off around the collar and button bands so that it would match the beautiful edges of the sleeves and hem. I’ve also seen it called the Italian bind off, sewn bind off, or kitchener bind off. I’m pretty sure they’re all the same thing. You rearrange the stitches so that they’re in k1, p1 order and then knit a couple rows of double knitting if you want to, then do a kitchener stitch, but instead of having the knit stitches on one needle and the purls on another, they’re all on the one. It took so long but it was so worth it! (I thought. more on that later…) He loved it! I actually finished the whole thing pretty much without any problems. I got it done, I gave it to him, he loved it, he sent pictures to all of his friends, and he would make them feel it and hold it so they could see how heavy it is, because it feels like a blanket… but as soon as he put it on, I realized that the collar was going to bother me a little bit. It just it wasn't laying down on the neck the way I wanted it to. To Frog or Not to Frog? I saw him kind of messing with it and I thought, 'Man, I don't know. Should I frog it and fix it?' And then I convinced myself not to, because normally my perceived mistakes are not that big of a deal, and nobody wants to frog. Then I started knitting a sweater for myself. I could tell that it really was bothering him, and he finally he finally admitted that it was, so I promised him that I would fix it, but told him he had to wait until I was finished with MY sweater. Then when I was almost finished with it, I ran out of yarn and had to order more. Sweater Surgery Mid-frog While I was waiting for that to arrive, I went ahead and did the surgery required on this guy, and let me tell you: frogging a tubular bind off is not an easy task. Oh my gosh, first of all, I had woven in the ends so well that I couldn't tell which was which. I ended up having to just cut it on the edge and frog it from there. I had to take each stitch out individually from the bind off, and then put in a safety line where I wanted to frog it back to. Then I added more yarn on, and knitted a bunch more rows, and then I bound off again, and it looked a lot better. He was like, "Oh yeah, that's better." Since the button band was now quite a bit wider, I had to move the buttons over, but as soon as I did that, I knew it wasn't going to look right. The buttonholes hadn’t moved and now the buttons were way off-center. I had him put it on, and I felt so discouraged because it really didn’t look right. The collar was better, but I just knew that I was going to have to frog again. The Real Problem I was really contemplating exactly how I wanted to tackle it. At first I was thinking that instead of adding more rows to the whole thing, I would add some more short rows to the upper portion of the collar so that THAT would get wider but not the button band. But then I realized that the real problem was not with how many rows I had knitted, but with the amazing, gorgeous, beautiful, tubular bind off. As beautiful as it is, it's not as stretchy as the ribbing, and that's why it wouldn't lay properly. Around the back of the neck, where it folds down and hits the shoulders, it needs to be able to stretch out a little, but it was instead riding up. The Solution I researched a ton to find the nicest-looking stretchy bind off and kept coming back to Jenny’s Super Stretchy. It doesn’t have the same look or feel as the tubular, but it sure does work a lot better for this purpose. I'm happy with how it turned out. When my husband tried it on he instantly was like "oh yeah, oh yeah, that feels a lot better." The new bind off allowed the collar to spread out more on the edge rather than drawing in. Of course I had to take off the buttons AGAIN and sew them on AGAIN, but it was it was all worth it. Never Stop Learning Like I said before, after all these years of knitting I'm always learning something new, and this time I learned not to get too stuck on one technique, because every technique has its own set of pros and cons. That's why it's great to have as many options in your tool belt as possible. Different bind off methods, different cast-ons, all that stuff. Glad it's over I'm happy to be done with it. I was starting to feel really discouraged because as a monogamous knitter, it felt really weird to be working on one project before finishing another. And then going back to the other project knowing this one still needs some attention. It started to feel like a needy ex-boyfriend that kept calling even though I had gotten married to someone else. But it was totally worth it to fix it, and I'm glad that I did. And my husband loves me, of course. Who wouldn't love to be married to a knitter? Anyway, it's a great pattern, um, you should knit it. And don't forget to go and check out the yarn! It is very warm and cozy. Links: Tamarack for him Swish Bulky Yarn* (the yarn I used is no longer available) Ravelry project page *affiliate link

  • Not For Sale

    I’ve been knitting for about 25 years. I don’t remember exactly when, but I decided to set a boundary that I won’t sell the things I knit, and especially not take on commissioned projects. But Why? When people ask me why, the answer I give usually depends on how interested I think they actually are. And that’s because there are a lot of reasons. Yes, I am trying to make money via knitting-related content, but the boundary for me is that the actual things I’m knitting are not for sale. One of my canned responses that I give people who ask if I can “make one for them’ is that I can teach them to knit so they can make it for themselves. I’m usually teasing, and of course you won’t knit intricate sweaters right away but I am serious about teaching people to knit! If we can’t meet in person for lessons, I even have an online course. You can check it out at the button below. Cost Breakdown In order to make a decent hourly rate, I feel the price I would have to charge would not be affordable. Let’s use the Channel Cardigan I made as an example, since so many people suggest that I should sell things like it. The pattern cost me $9.00 The yarn cost exactly $123.81 It took me 5 months, at an estimated average of 1/2 hour per day for a total of 75 hours. At $20/hour, the labor cost would be $1,500 That adds up to $1632.81 - I definitely estimated on the low end of hours and hourly rate, so let’s round it up to a nice, even $2,000. Still think I’ll have a lot of buyers? Not to mention the added layer of pressure when making custom clothing for strangers. Fit is very personal, so I would have to have the person’s measurements, and at that price, I would feel immense pressure for it to be perfect, and it would be so stressful! Need for Variety In order to be able to churn things out faster, I could make all smaller projects like bulky hats or cowls, which are fun once in a while, but I get bored knitting the same pattern over and over again. I like variety too much! I don't like to be rushed. Knitting is a relaxing pastime for me, but knitting on someone else’s timeline kind of kills that. Of course I always have in my head when I’d like to finish each project, but aside from wanting to wear a sweater while it’s still winter, I don’t get strict about it. This is also why when I knit gifts, they’re usually not tied to a specific event or holiday. They’re a just-because and whenever-it’s-done sort of gift! Hobby ≠ Job Sometimes turning your hobby into a career makes the hobby not fun anymore, and that would break my heart. I had a client years ago whose husband really loved photography and so decided to become a Photographer. She shared with me one day at an appointment that it had made him not enjoy taking pictures anymore, because it felt like work. That's always stuck with me. I never want knitting to be something I HAVE to do. It brings me a lot of joy and I don’t want to lose that. Not everything you enjoy in life needs to be a money-making enterprise. Have you ever sold things you made by hand? How did you feel about the experience? Was it enjoyable, and did you earn an amount that matches what your time is worth?

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  • Team

    Meet the dedicated team that takes care of business at Becca J Norman. Team Members Becca Norman CEO Becca Norman is the head honcho. She works hard to keep the business in line with the company values. Read More Becca Norman Customer Service Becca Norman is wholeheartedly committed to providing you with the best experience possible. Read More Becca Norman Creative Director Becca Norman's imagination is responsible for everything you see around here. You're welcome? Read More Becca Norman Knitting Teacher Becca Norman heads up the tutorials you see on the blog and is the instructor in our classes. Read More Becca Norman Web Designer Becca Norman worked way too hard building this site. She's pretty proud of herself. Read More Becca Norman Pattern Designer Becca Norman started designing knitting patterns a long time before publishing any. Read More The Skin Care Team

  • Home | Becca J Norman | simple living and a lot of knitting

    Discover the benefits of knitting with Becca J Norman. Learn techniques, reduce stress, and create cherished items. Simple living and a lot of knitting Make quality items that will be loved for generations, while enjoying all the benefits that knitting can offer. Reduce your screen time by keeping your hands engaged, and nurture meaningful relationships with the people you love. Learn with me Private Knitting Lesson Customized help, for one or two hours Read More From 30 US dollars From $30 Request to Book Beginner Knitting Class - September 2026 3 classes, 3 weeks in a row, relaxed pace Read More Starts Sep 14 100 US dollars $100 Loading availability... Loading availability... Book Now Introduction to Lace Knitting Intermediate workshop: Make a lace bookmark Read More Starts Oct 26 50 US dollars $50 Loading availability... Loading availability... Book Now Check out these recent Blog posts Knitting Patterns Quick View Pattern PDF Felix and Felici Fox Price $5.00 Quick View Pattern PDF Master of Scarves Price $3.00 Quick View Pattern PDF Santiago Serape Price $5.00 Quick View Pattern PDF Football plushie Price $2.00

  • Contact | Becca J Norman

    Contact Becca J Norman, Knitting Teacher, via email. Home About Shop Learn Blog Search Becca's recommendations Notifications My Subscriptions More Contact Me Questions? Comments? Just want to say hi? I'd love to hear from you! Send me a note and I'll reply as soon as I can. becca@beccajnorman.com First Name Last Name Email Message Send Thanks for submitting!

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